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Explore your benefits at ahphair.com 27 Respiratory exposure to chemicals is reduced with most digital perm systems. e absence of strong ammonia compounds means less airborne irritation, though proper ventilation remains important, especially when working with heated systems that can increase chemical volatility. APPLICATION DIFFERENCES e ingredient diff erences translate to real changes in your service protocols. Sectioning and application o en need to be more precise because the chemical doesn't have the same penetration characteristics as traditional alkaline systems. e hair won't swell as much, so thorough saturation is critical. Timing works diff erently too. While total processing time might be shorter, the heat activation phase requires careful monitoring. Unlike traditional perms where you can visually assess curl development, digital perms o en require you to rely on timing and temperature rather than visual cues. Neutralization processes also change. Some digital perm systems use diff erent neutralizing chemistry— sometimes acidic neutralizers rather than oxidizing ones. Understanding your specifi c system's neutralization requirements can prevent incomplete processing or unexpected results. BIGGER PICTURE: WHY CHEMISTRY MATTERS Digital perms aren't just "gentler" perms, they're fundamentally diff erent chemical processes that work through diff erent mechanisms. For hair that's been previously colored or chemically treated, the lower pH of digital systems o en makes them more compatible, but the heat component requires careful assessment. For virgin hair, digital perms can provide more predictable results with less damage, but they might not achieve the same curl tightness as traditional alkaline systems. IN CONCLUSION Digital perming represents a legitimate evolution in hair chemistry, not just a marketing trend. e ingredient diff erences create genuinely diff erent outcomes for both hair health and professional safety. Understanding these diff erences helps you work more eff ectively, communicate more clearly with clients, and position your services appropriately in an increasingly competitive market. Whether you're considering adding digital perming to your service menu or troubleshooting existing digital perm challenges, the chemistry knowledge gives you the foundation to work confi dently with these systems. Resources Bouillon, C. and J. Wilkinson. e Science of Hair Care. 2nd ed. CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group, 2005. Breakspear, S., J. R. Smith, and G. Luengo. "Effect of the Covalently Linked Fatty Acid 18-MEA on the Nanotribology of Hair's Outermost Surface." Journal of Structural Biology 149, no. 3 (March 2005): 235–42. doi.org/10.1016/j.jsb.2004.10.003. Cannell, D. W. "Permanent Waving and Hair Straightening." Clinics in Dermatology 6, no. 3 (July–September 1988): 71–82. doi.org/10.1016/0738-081X(88)90035-1. Harland, D. P. et al. "e Susceptibility of Disulfide Bonds to Modification in Keratin Fibers Undergoing Tensile Stress." Biophysical Journal 121, no. 11 (June 2022): P2168–79. doi.org /10.1016/j.bpj.2022.04.029. Jones, L. N. and D. E. Rivett. "e Role of 18-Methyleicosanoic Acid in the Structure and Formation of Mammalian Hair Fibres." Micron 28, no. 6 (December 1997): 469–85. doi.org/10.1016/ S0968-4328(97)00039-5. Swi, J. A. "e Mechanics of Fracture of Human Hair." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 21, no. 4 (August 1999): 227–39. doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.186942.x. THE INGREDIENT GETTY IMAGES