Issue link: https://www.ahpindiestylist.com/i/1544743
22 AHP Indie Stylist Volume 7 Issue 1 Twilight Thistle by Twylla Jane DeGuzman While some salt-and-pepper clients like to lean into their natural gray tones, others like to shout color from the rooops rather than flash their gray. For your more daring clients, this gradient purple look, which I dubbed "Twilight istle," paired with an angled cut might be just what they're looking for. Follow these easy steps to achieve the color and cut. THE FORMULA Pulp Riot Semi-Permanent Color in shades Deviant, Jam, Nevermore, and Lilac (four shades of purple), plus a surprise piece or two of shade Iced Skater. (It's my signature to put a tiny pop of a different color.) GET THE COLOR 1. Babylight all over with Redken Blonde Icing and 20 volume Blonde Icing Cream Developer. Highlighting helps give the direct dye something to hold on to since it fades off of gray hair much faster. 2. Working horizontally through each quadrant, alternate the four purple shades at the root into the mid-sha. 3. From the mid-sha to ends, blend the previous color into Nevermore for two sections, and then Lilac for two sections. is gives lots of dimension at the roots and a so, ethereal pastel finish through the ends. Use this technique through three sections with a slight change in the front-right quadrant. 4. On the front-right quadrant, randomly place two full horizontal sections of Iced Skater. Have one of these sections slice through the fringe. Paint all other horizontal sections like the previous three quadrants. GET THE CUT 1. Separate the fringe and the hair at the nape from the back and crown. Create a diagonal section for the front le, from the crown just behind the ear to just in front of the ear, to make a disconnected drop in the shape. 2. Cut the fringe at zero-degrees elevation against the skin with a wide-tooth comb holding the hair in place. is will allow for any cowlicks to gently fall into place. Cut a blunt line microfringe straight across. 3. At the nape area, cut a horizontal line at the desired length at zero- degrees elevation using your finger to hold the tension while creating the line. If the hair is bulky at the nape, comb the entire section straight up and hold at 90 degrees against the head a half inch over the parting and cut horizontally. 4. rough the back of the head, comb the hair straight down and cut to the base guideline from the previous step. en take vertical sections beginning at the center back. Pull the hair straight out perpendicular from the head and cut at a 45-degree angle. Work le and right using the previous section as a guide. e right side should end behind the ear and the le side should end just in front of the ear. 5. Overdirect the entire front-right quadrant backward to the vertical section just behind the ear on the right side and cut using that section as the guide. is will maintain length in the front of the right side. 6. Comb the front quadrant to zero-degrees elevation and cut the baseline at the desired forward diagonal length. 7. Overdirect the crown section to the center and elevate to 45 degrees. Using the shortest piece from the center section below, cut the corner parallel to the section to create volume and remove weight. 8. For the front-le quadrant, comb the entire section straight backward and up at a 45-degree angle. Your guide will be the center of the previous section in the crown. is will cause a dramatic drop in the angle of the front-le quadrant. With a freehand-style cut, create a so forward diagonal line longer than the right side. COLOR THE PHOTOS COURTESY OF TWYLLA JANE DEGUZMAN