Issue link: https://www.ahpindiestylist.com/i/1520596
50 AHP Indie Stylist Volume 5 Issue 1 didn't test or prove efficacy in a trial with human participants. 1 K18 has been awarded a patent for the peptide in its bond-building treatment and has other ingredient patent applications. 2 K18's patented peptide has "the right composition of cysteines, structure, adjacency, and length to fit right in and bind itself covalently with the keratin chains both in length and laterally, while also participating in interchain and intrachain actions and disulfide reconformation," says Suveen Sahib, K18's co-founder. Other ingredients found in bond-building products include cationic polymers. "ese ingredients, such as quaternary (quats) agents, help condition the hair shaft by forming a protective layer on the surface (cuticle) of the hair, softening and smoothing the cuticle, and reducing friction between strands to help improve manageability, reduce tangling, and add shine," Celestin says. Ingredients like amino acids, hydrolyzed proteins, panthenol, and humectants are also common in bond-building products to help with hair hydration. Some silicones like dimethicone can be added to a bond formula to provide additional conditioning and smoothing benefits to the outer cuticle. Ingredients like vitamins C and E and botanical extracts like green tea may also be included to help protect the hair from environmental damage and oxidative stress from ultraviolet (UV) rays and pollution, which can also contribute to hair damage. Unlike other hair products, bond builders work effectively across all hair types. Some bond builders may be formulated to address specific concerns like hydration, frizz control, or color protection, but all bond builders are formulated with hair strength as the primary benefit. PROFESSIONAL VS. AT-HOME TREATMENTS e difference between professional bond builders and at-home treatment lies in how the products are formulated and the potency of ingredients. Salon-grade, bond-building products are more versatile, allowing hair professionals to customize the treatment based on the consultation and evaluation of the client's hair. "In-salon bond builders often have higher concentrations of active ingredients and may be applied with chemical processes," says Yehiel Amouyal, a cosmetic chemist. "At-home treatments are generally less concentrated but offer protection for daily use." You may mix in a bond builder with your color formulation to repair hair bonds that incur damage during the color and bleaching process. Salon clients that bleach or color their hair can benefit from adding a hair- bonding treatment to their regular, at-home washing routine to reinforce those bonds, making hair even stronger. Over time, your clients may notice that their hair feels softer, stronger, and healthier, despite having to endure repeated chemical processes. Hair-bonding products can work wonders for all hair types, but too much of a good thing can lead to problems. "e overuse of proteins and bonders can have an adverse effect on the hair, causing protein buildup/ overload, which can suffocate, dehydrate, and damage the hair," Celestin says. Before sending a client home with a bottle of bond builder, spend time educating them on proper usage and warn them about the potential side effects of misuse. Last year, a group of more than 30 plaintiffs filed a class action lawsuit against Olaplex, claiming the products contained allergens and irritants that caused them to experience hair breakage, hair loss, and scalp irritation. cocarrine/pexels