Issue link: https://www.ahpindiestylist.com/i/1520596
48 AHP Indie Stylist Volume 5 Issue 1 Hair-bonding products are not the same as hair masks, conditioners, or other surface- level hair treatments, which is why it's important for hair professionals to educate their clients about what hair-bonding products are doing to the hair on a scientific level and how to use these treatments safely without overtreating the hair. A REFRESHER ON HAIR BONDS Hair is mainly made of keratin, a protein held together by various chemical bonds. ese chemical bonds make your hair strong and shiny and give it shape. Strong hair bonds provide the necessary structural support that makes hair more resilient against damage caused by heat, chemical treatments, styling, and various environmental factors. Any chemical change to the hair, such as bleaching, coloring, or heat styling, can weaken the bonds that hold hair together, making each strand more susceptible to damage. is can manifest as dryness, frizz, split ends, breakage, and even hair loss. To go a step further, hair is made of three types of bonds: hydrogen bonds, salt (ionic) bonds, and disulfide (covalent) bonds. "Hydrogen bonds are the most prevalent hair bond and really important for the hair strength when it's dry," says Valerie George, a cosmetic chemist. However, hydrogen bonds are also the weakest bonds and can be changed by heat or water. e good news is they reform when the hair dries, and when they do, these bonds give hair strength and help lock it into its position. Salt or ionic bonds are also temporary, like hydrogen bonds, but they're much stronger. "is bond is important when hair is dry, but goes away when hair is wet, much like how salt dissolves in water," George says. Salt bonds can be weakened or broken by changes in the hair's pH levels. Disulfide or covalent bonds are the hair bonds that hair professionals are most familiar with. is permanent bond is very strong and dictates the shape, structure, and texture of hair. It's the only bond that doesn't go away when hair gets wet, so it's important to the hair's strength when it's dry as well as when it's wet. Although they are the strongest of the hair bonds, disulfide bonds can be broken via oxidation and reduction reactions, which happen during bleaching or perming processes. "A chemical reaction has to occur for this bond to go away," George says. "You'll know someone has a lot of broken disulfide bonds in their hair if, when the hair gets wet, it's stretchy and weak." Once the hair dries, the hair strength will be restored because the hydrogen and salt bonds reform, which makes up for the strength of the broken disulfide bonds. Salon-grade, bond-building products are more versatile, allowing for hair professionals to customize the treatment based on the consultation and evaluation of the client's hair.