Issue link: https://www.ahpindiestylist.com/i/1528796
52 AHP Indie Stylist Volume 5 Issue 2 "When we're talking about formulating, a lot of the time hair pros are neutralizing or mixing colors opposite each other on the color wheel," says Renée Valerie, director of education at R+Co. "e only reason that works is because we're mixing our three primary colors together." e color wheel teaches stylists more than what colors are created when mixed together. It also highlights the distinction between cool and warm tones. Half of the color wheel is warm, and the other half is cool. Warm tones range from yellow to red, and cool tones range from green to violet. An overlap exists at either end of the color wheel, where cool turns warm and warm turns into cool. Understanding the basic principles of color theory makes it easy to correct any color imbalances in a client's hair. By using the principle of complementary colors, you can neutralize any unwanted tones. Lightener naturally lifts the hair to a warm reddish-gold color, which can be corrected with a cool-toned, ash-colored formula, resulting in a more neutral tone. Warm tones neutralize cool tones, and vice versa. When two complementary colors are mixed, all three primary colors are present, producing a neutral tone. "Depending on that underlying pigment, you're going to go find that color on the color wheel and go directly across from it—that's going to tell you what you need to neutralize that color," says Sara Jane Diaz, color purity specialist at Innersense Organic Beauty. "When the light hits that hair, the eye is seeing exactly the color that you want to see." SELECTING YOUR CLIENT'S IDEAL TONE When formulating color, you must consider the color and tone (cool or warm) of the pigment being applied and how that color will look against the client's overall complexion. e first step is determining a client's undertone, and whether it's cool, warm, or neutral. "Analyzing skin tone, complexion, and eye level—not just eye color—is going to give you the most harmonious color result," Valerie says. "It helps you understand why certain colors are better on people than others. When you take a step back and analyze those three things, you can truly create something that . . . just stands out, and it elevates everything." Primary Secondary Tertiary