Issue link: https://www.ahpindiestylist.com/i/1528796
96 AHP Indie Stylist Volume 5 Issue 2 INBOX THE So, My Client Wants to Embrace eir Salt and Pepper . . . Expert advice from industry pros PRO ANSWERS "As with any color service, gray blending is a process. Gray hues grow differently on everyone, so go back to the basics of your color wheel when formulating. Allow the gray to naturally grow in so you can determine if they fall on the cooler or warmer side. en, discuss the options with your client that give you time to successfully move through the process." —Jalia Pettis, dually licensed session stylist "l start by removing the artificial dye using Matrix SoColor Cult Color Eraser, paying special attention to only apply it on hair that has artificial color. I then start the bleaching process. Working across the entire head, starting from where the gray roots begin, I take very thin sections and apply Matrix Light Master Pre-Bonded and 20 volume developer. I mix small amounts as I go to keep the lightener active, and I up my level of developer as I work through the head. I reopen each foil as I work and reapply a new lightener mixture if needed on the warm areas until I reach the lightest pale blonde. By doing this, I can deposit a more neutral, natural tone into the hair. After shampooing this process, I tone with Matrix Tonal Control. If needed, I also apply a lowlight to break up the dimension in a neutral shade. I try to match the lowlight as close to the 'pepper' in the natural hair. I shampoo and condition to finish. e total time for this transformation can be anywhere from 5 to 10 hours depending on the amount of hair and density your client has." —Danielle Keasling, Ulta Beauty Pro Team, celebrity hairstylist, and Matrix/Biolage global director QUESTION My client told me they want to go back to their natural salt and pepper. No matter what I do, it always ends up turning them too ashy or too platinum. I can't seem to get it right. What should I do?