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Explore your benefits at associatedhairprofessionals.com 21 on a person's head. Someone may have one type of texture at the nape of their neck and another at the front hairline or on the temples. As we know, coarse hair has the thickest diameter, so it can be more resistant when performing a chemical service, which could mean needing additional processing time. In contrast, someone with fine hair is more susceptible to damage since this texture is the smallest in diameter and more fragile. (For more about how texture and other factors relate to curl pattern, check out "Back to Natural" on page 52.) DENSITY Density is important to consider for your service because it can vary across the head. Density measures the number of individual strands in 1 square inch on the scalp, summing up how many hairs are on a person's head. Hair density changes from person to person, depending on factors like age and ethnicity, but is around 1,000 strands per square inch. 1 e average head of hair contains 80,000–120,000 individual hair strands. 2 is can vary across different textures and densities depending on the area of the head. Determining the two factors of texture and density can also alter your chemical formulation and processing time. POROSITY Hair porosity is the ability of a hair strand to absorb moisture. e degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. A healthy, compact cuticle layer will be resistant to water (hydrophobic), while a raised cuticle layer will absorb moisture (hydrophilic). When we determine what the condition of the hair is, we may need to adjust our formulations and processing time. If someone has resistant hair, a higher alkaline solution may be needed to open the cuticle layer and allow the chemical to penetrate the cortex and work its magic. A damaged and open cuticle layer that may have been previously overprocessed can have the look and feel of being dry, fragile, and sometimes brittle. For porous hair, using a less alkaline solution will help alleviate further damage to the hair. ELASTICITY When you think of the word elasticity, you might imagine a rubber band. Healthy elasticity allows the hair strand to stretch up to 50 percent of its original length when wet and return to its original length without breaking; healthy, dry hair can stretch up to 20 percent of its original length without breaking. 3 Unhealthy hair with low elasticity may break easily or may not be able to hold a curl from a chemical or physical treatment such as a perm or thermal styling. Elasticity in the hair gets its strength from the side bonds that hold each hair fiber in place. When these side bonds Knowing how to differentiate between hair types and the condition of the hair will prepare you to make decisions about the hair service you're performing.