Issue link: https://www.ahpindiestylist.com/i/1483267
N ot a m e m b e r ? J o i n at a s so c iate d h a i rp rofe s sio n a ls .c o m 31 STEP 1: LIGHTEN Apply lightener formula to the existing new growth, avoiding overlapping on the ends. Mix in Olaplex to avoid additional color damage. Lighten hair to a level 10 pale yellow undertone. Rinse off lightener and completely dry hair. Apply toner formula from roots to ends to counteract any excess warmth and achieve the desired platinum shade. STEP 2: BASE SHADING Apply a shade no more than three levels apart from your ends formula for minimal contrast, and go four levels or higher for maximum contrast and dimension. Apply base shade in full saturation from the first ½–1 inch of hair. Then, flick the brush up toward the ends as the brush leaves the hair. This will create full saturation of color at the roots, graduating into less saturation through the mids of the hair. Next, apply your ends formula and use your fingers to blend the base shade into the ends color. This will melt the two colors seamlessly. STEP 3: HAIRCUT Section off the top from the bottom with a horseshoe shape from temple to temple. For the undercut, cut a graphic blunt line all the way around the head. Then, cut straight graduated layers using a vertical finger position and vertical finger angle all around the head with no overdirection. Leave enough weight at the perimeter line to keep it strong and visible. For the top, take vertical sections on the top of the head, starting in the back. Cut the desired length, elevating straight up with a horizontal cutting line. Take 1-inch subsections moving through the top of the head, overdirecting to the previous section as you move forward for a subtle increase in length toward the front. Then, cut the bangs to the desired length and texturize as needed. STEP 4: EXTENSIONS Custom color tape-in extensions in the natural hair color and fashion shades. Then, apply extensions to the top of the haircut and cut them to blend. FORMULAS AND HOT TIPS Color Formula: Pre-lightened with Matrix Light Master + Matrix 20 Volume Cream Developer, Matrix So Color Sync 10P + Matrix 10 Volume Cream Developer Tip: The key to the perfect platinum is achieving the perfect pre-lift! Saturation with your lighteners helps maximize lift for blondes/bleach and tones. Lay your lightener on each section as thick as you would ice a cake. If you can see hair underneath the lightener, lay on more. Extensions Color Formula: Matrix So Color Cult Semi Permanent Colors in Dusty Blue, Neon Green, Lavender Macaron, and Bubblegum Pink Tip: Custom coloring extensions is a great way to add pops of color to the hair without coloring the actual hair. Try coloring clip-in extensions with semi- permanent color to create a unique extension wardrobe for your client. One secret for coloring extensions is to dip-dye. Mix warm water with semipermanent color until the water takes on the desired shade. Then, dip your extensions in the water and allow the hair to absorb the colored water. THE PROTOCOL